Study Anchor Principles
1 weekLearn SERENE (Strong, Equalized, Redundant, Efficient, No Extension) and ERNEST frameworks for building anchors.
Field context
This workflow is part of 1 niche field
Learn anchor building skills from scratch with a clear step-by-step workflow, recommended tools, safety guidelines, and expert tips.
Learn SERENE (Strong, Equalized, Redundant, Efficient, No Extension) and ERNEST frameworks for building anchors.
Practice equalizing two and three pieces with cordelette and quad systems on boulders before cliff use.
Construct gear anchors at stance with good rock, extended master point, and belay orientation.
Evaluate bolt condition, chain wear, and rap rings; supplement with gear if any doubt.
Anchor legs at 120° angle each see 100% load — keep angles ≤ 60° when possible.
Cross-loaded carabiners lose major strength — align master point loading.
Build anchors away from loose rock above when possible.
Solo climbing anchor failure fatal — double-check without partner reminder.